Download: Homemade derringer

By Benny 8025


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This video will show you my latest homemade pistol, this time a full metal, single shot, muzzle loading .177 cal derringer. It's made out of brass, aluminium, steel and mahogany.

This pistol differs from my other guns because, of course it's the first full metal pistol I have made, but it also features a half- and full-cock triger system to make loading and carrying safer (many of you have given concerns about the trigger system on my other guns), and it has a leaf spring* rather than a coil spring. This spring was made from a hacksaw blade. (*See the update at the bottom)

The pistol was made with some turning, some milling, quite a bit of sawing, a lot of filing, a lot of patience, and a little irritation

Length: 80mm
Width: 30mm
Height: 54mm
Weight: 167 grams
Total number of parts: 41
Amunition: 4,5 mm lead round airgun bullets. It can also shoot pellets, but because the barrel is not rifled they tumble a lot and doesn't fly straight.
Amount of gunpowder: Abount 1 grain, 0,07 grams, or a little over half a .22 shell of Armstrong's mix

Construction time: I made the barrel and the mid sections almost a year ago, but then the project stopped for a while. I recently the parts up and desided to give it one more try. I worked on it whenever I had time and felt for it for 3 weeks or so until March 9. when I was done.

Despite the half-cock it would still not be considered completely safe to carry over a long period of time. If I where to carry it loaded for a longer time I would place a used cap on the nipple and replace it with a new one when ready to fire. I could also flip the barrel open.

I have only tested the velosity one time. The Chrony dialed in at 643 FPS, 195 MPS. I used the same lead bullets as in the video. They are 8,17 grains. With a bit of math I find that it gives a power of 7,5 foot pound, or 10 nm.

Update 28.06.2014
As of all my other guns this eventually had problems with the hammer spring. I removed the forged leaf spring made from a hack saw blade and replaced it with a torsion spring. To make it all fit I milled out a portion of the hammer and placed the spring over the hammer pin. The ends rest in the hammer and against the small drum which holds the screws in the handle. This can best be seen on the updated blueprint.

Update 28.06.2014
The right barrel lock stud kept falling of while shooting. It seems that gluing and/or press fitting it to the locking plate wasn't enough to hold it in place. I lost the stud, so I had to make a new one. This time, to hold it permanently in place, but still to be able to remove it in case I need access to the gun's inside, I drilled and milled a ''rectangular'' hole all the way through the stud to fit over the flat steel locking plate. I then soldered the stud to the locking plate, and filed away the overflowing solder to match the grooves in the stud. It turned out much better then I thought it would, with a fast look over the gun you can barely see it.

So if I ever make a gun with the same barrel locking mechanism, I will do it like this.

''I am not going to build a tutorial on how to make one of these, it's too in depth. If you're a good enough machinist, you should be able to figure out how this works and how the mechanism works, its the simplest action in the world, and if you're skilled enough to actually build something like this you should be able to figure out how to make it yourself, without my help.''


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